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Use the following tips to make the most out of your garden!
GARDEN TIMING TABLE
- Uncover roses, spring bulbs, and perennials.
- Spray fruit trees, hawthorns, crabs, and cotoneasters with dormant spray before the leaves emerge.
- Remove tree wrap from thin-skinned trees and ornamentals as soon as the snow melts.
- Incorporate compost into the garden.
- Remove rose cones.
- Divide and replant perennials.
- Rake, overseed, and fertilize the lawn.
- Fertilize trees, shrubs, and evergreens.
- When flower buds begin to show pink, begin a spray program for apple scab; continue as needed.
- Plant warm season vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, melons) after Memorial Day.
- Prune mugho pines when your lilacs are in full bloom.
- Mow grass no shorter than two inches.
- Begin weed control before weeds go to seed.
- Plant summer-blooming bulbs.
- Plant annuals and geraniums.
- Apply lawn fertilizer before the summer heat sets in.
- Prune spring-flowering shrubs and ornamental trees after they are finished blooming.
- Trim evergreens and hedges.
- Mulch your garden after the soil has warmed in late June.
- Begin spray program for black spot on roses.
- Look for wasp nests around the house and treat when discovered.
- Watch for insect problems on all plants.
- Begin apple maggot control program with Sevin spray or sticky ball traps.
- Water, weed, fertilize, and harvest your vegetables.
- Water young trees and shrubs weekly through the growing season unless rain is ample.
- Trim maple trees.
- Remove spring bulb foliage as it browns.
- Remove faded flowers on annuals to encourage more blooms.
- Pick fruits and vegetables as they ripen.
- Seed and fertilize your yard between August 15 and September 15 (aerate, de-thatch, and overseed).
- Spray annual weeds with broadleaf killer.
- Plan spring bulb garden.
- Allow normal needle drop from arborvitae, spruce, pine, and fir to remain under the tree.
- Seed new lawns and overseed thin lawns early in the month.
- Apply a low nitrogen fertilizer.
- Install sod and water frequently
- Divide and replant perennials.
- Plant evergreens and continue to water young trees and shrubs.
- Examine and treat house plants for pest problems before bringing them indoors.
- Plant daffodils late in the month.
- Remove dead annuals.
- Wrap young and thin-bark trees to protect them from sun scald and animal damage.
- Plant spring-flowering bulbs.
- Rake leaves to prevent lawn disease.
- Mow lawn as long as growth continues.
- Add shredded leaves to compost pile.
- Contact your designer to develop plans for spring landscaping.
- Remove garden debris (Debris allows diseases and insects a place to survive the winter).
- Protect roses and mulch perennials.
- Clean out eaves and down spouts.
- Plant large shade trees.
- Prepare snow removal equipment.
- Be sure plantings, especially those that are newly planted, are well watered until the ground freezes.
- Begin dormant pruning of ornamentals.
Planting & Care Guide
- Always pick up plants by the container or burlap ball—not by the plant top.
- In heavy, poorly drained soil, set the plant in the ground with enough potting mixture underneath so that the top of the earth ball is slightly higher than ground level.
- Some trees require winter protection. Please contact us for advice on proper winter protection.
- Certain slow release or liquid fertilizers are suitable for use at planting time. Follow the label directions. Once the plant is established, the proper use of fertilizer is beneficial to the health, vigor, and vitality of all plants.
- How To Plant A Successful Landscape Project
- The typical landscape project should be completed in the following sequence:
- Locate underground wiring, pipes, and other utilities.
- Clear the site of debris and plants scheduled for removal.
- Locate the bed lines. Measure the distance on the plan from an existing structure to points along the proposed bed line. Convert these measurements to the site by using a tape measure to locate points of the ground. After a number of points have been located, lay a garden hose along them to establish bed lines. The planting bed may appear too large, but remember that plants will grow to fit. Do not move the planting bed lines in order to reduce its size!
- Remove sod from all planting beds with a sharp spade or sod cutter.
- After sod has been removed, rake the new planting bed smooth and slope it away from the house. If the bed is not constructed adjacent to a building, check the best direction for drainage.
- Install edging according to directions provided with the materials being used.
- Stake locations of plants to follow the plan, or the landscape designer’s instructions.
- To repeat a word of caution, plant materials may appear too small for the bed size, but they will grow to fit the space.
- After planting is completed, install rock, redwood bark or wood chip mulch, if any is to be used. To begin this work, lay the weed barrier over the top of the plants, cut a hole in the materials the same diameter as the plant, and lower the weed barrier to the ground. It should not be tight against the plant base. After the barrier is in place, install the rock or wood mulch to a depth of two to four inches.
- It is important to always facilitate positive drainage. In most cases around foundations, remove very little soil at foundation and full depth at edging. See Original Grade. Then install edging and plants, lay weed barrier and install mulch over remaining grade. In other words, create drainage flow with proper excavation, not with mulch.
- See manufacturer’s instructions for edging installation. Be sure to set edging low enough so lawn mower wheels, etc. do not catch top edge. Install plants at original grade rather than excavated grade.
- Dig the hole approximately 50% wider and slightly deeper than the pot. Cut the container down the sides and remove the plant. IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE EARTH BALL INTACT!
- Set the plant in the hole with enough soil underneath to bring the top of the earth ball even with the ground level. Hold the plant erect and fill in around it with improved soil until the hole is 2/3 filled.
- Water from below the plant until hole is filled. After the water settles away, finish backfilling. Leave a shallow depression around the plant to collect water.
- Container Stock Planting
- Slit container down opposite sides.
- Gently remove plant from container. Important: Keep earth ball intact.
- If plastic pot, slip plant from container.
Balled & Burplapped
- DO NOT REMOVE THE BURLAP OR THE WIRE BASKET. Dig a hole approximately 50% wider and slightly deeper than the earth ball. Set the plant in the hole with enough soil underneath so that the top of the earth balls even with ground level. Hold the plant erect and fill in around it with improved soil until the hole is 2/3 filled.
- Let hose down and water from below until the hole is filled. After the water settles away, finish backfilling. Leave a shallow depression around the plant to collect water. Cut the rope that secures the burlap around the plant base at the top of the root ball. Remove any strings that may be tied around trunk. Leave all burlap intact.
- Bare Root
Keep the roots moist, covered and in a cool location at all times preceding the planting. When you are ready to plant, remove and discard all packing material. Cut away broken roots and trim long roots rather than bending or doubling them in planting. Prune back the top of the plant approximately one-third if this was not done by the nursery. When pruning bare root trees, do not remove the main leader.
- Dig the hole large enough so that the roots will easily fit without pressing against the sides and so that the plant will be at the same depth as it was in the nursery. Hold the plant erect and fill in around it with improved soil until the hole is 2/3 filled.
Water from below by letting hose down hole beside plant until the hole is filled. After the water settles away, finish backfilling. Leave a shallow depression around the plant to collect water.
Bare Root Roses
- To plant a dormant rose, place the plant so that the graft is at least one inch below the surface grade. Spread the roots out over a cone-shaped mound in the base of the hole. Fill in over the roots with a mixed blend of soil, firming the soil as it is added. Leave a basin for water and soak thoroughly, making sure that after the earth settles the bud union of the rose is at least one inch below the surface.
When the plant has been thoroughly watered, mound soil up over all the canes and make certain all are completely covered. This keeps the canes from drying out until the roots have become established. Check after one week to see if buds have begun to sprout along the canes.
- When several buds on each cane have sprouted to a length of at least ½”, the mounded soil may be removed but be sure to re-form a pocket at the base of the plant to hold water. If the buds still appear dormant, leave the mound intact.
- When you purchase potted roses, the work of hilling up and starting the plant has already been done for you. The plants are in full leaf and many are in bud when offered for sale. In addition to being less work to plant, they usually produce an extra set of blooms the first season.
- Soil preparation for planting potted roses should be as carefully done as when planting a dormant bare root plan. No mound need be made in the bottom of the hole, but you must keep the ball of earth firmly intact around the roots. Carefully remove the pot or container and gently lower the plant into the hole, with graft at least 1 ½” below the surface of the ground. Fill in around the roots with prepared soil and water thoroughly. No mounding over the tops need be done on potted, started roses.
- Roses require winter protection. Consult us for advice on the best method for your roses.
Perennials, Strawberries, Bulbs and Tubers
- These items are generally best planted in prepared beds. We will be happy to give you advice on proper preparation. Carefully spread the roots of perennials and strawberries and plant only as deep as they were in the nursery. Bulbs, tubers, and peonies should be planted to the following depths:
|3″||Anenome (6” apart), Ranunculus, Gladiolus, Tigridia|
|4″||Montbretia, Bulbous Iris (4” apart), Tuberose, Chonodoxa (3” apart), Crocus (3” apart), Snowdrop, Galtonia|
|5″||Grape Hyacinth (3” apart)|
|5 ½”||Tulip (6” apart)|
|7″||Narcissus (6” apart)|
|8″||Lily (12” apart)|
Roots of newly-planted stock must not dry completely for extended periods of time, especially during the first growing season. Such stress may kill them. Water each plant thoroughly right after planting to settle the soil around the roots, then check soil near the base of plants to a depth of 6”. Water when soil feels dry. The frequency and amount of water depends on the character of the soils. Water about once each week to ten days from April to September in clay or other heavy soils; twice a week watering may be needed in sandy or lighter soils. Do not water so often that the soil does not drain and remains soggy. Too frequent, shallow watering will hamper root development. All the garden hose to run at a slow trickle for ½-1 hour on each plant, depending on size on soil type. Give one final deep watering to all evergreens before the ground freezes in the winter. Do not rely on sprinklers until your planting is well established.
Examine your plants at regular intervals to determine whether or not an insect or disease problem is present. Treatment is most effective when begun early. At the first sign of insect or disease problems, contact us. With proper instruction, you can control many of these problems yourself.
Plants require only a shortening of more vigorous branches the first year or two after planting to keep a symmetrical appearance. After the second year, begin the following program of maintenance pruning:
Deciduous Shrubs: Spring flowering varieties should be pruned after flowering. Summer flowering varieties should be pruned in the early spring.
Evergreen Shrubs: June or July
Evergreen Trees: These are usually planted in open yards and normally do not need to be pruned. If needed, however, prune in June and do not remove more that ½ of the new growth. A few weeks after evergreens are planted, some small branches may have turned down. These may have been injured in handling and should be cut off.
Formal Hedges: Prune several time during the season.
Shade Trees: After the first year, remove one or two of the lowest limbs until the lowest limbs are at the ultimate desired height. Most trees can be trimmed any time of the year. Oak and Honeylocust, however, should be trimmed only during the winter.
Shrubs, with their variety in sizes and shapes, add a distinctive enhancement to any landscaping project.
There are three groups of shrubs:
Dwarf Shrub—Usually under four feet in height. They work excellent in rock gardens or any location with limited space. Many smaller shrubs bloom earlier and last longer than larger varieties.
Intermediate Shrub—Range in size from four to six feet. They work excellent near corners of buildings, around patios, privacy border. Many varieties of this size have colorful leaves along with beautiful flowers.
Tall Shrub—Range six feet or higher. They make wonderful screening for privacy. These shrubs also make wonderful foundation planting for large buildings and businesses.
We can advise you to the best shrubs that meet your needs pertaining to shade, tolerance, hardiness, soil and water requirements.